The
Gulf waters were being stirred
by
a tropical storm in early June.
The
top of the forty-foot tall
eucalyptus
tree was streaming eastward.
This
was my treesock,
alerting
me to possible surf activity.
We
lived four miles from the beach.
Abby
posed no further threat.
So at
sunrise,
with
my Dewey Weber surfboard
stowed
in the back of a 1960
pale
blue four-door
Ford
Falcon station wagon,
I
headed for Big Hickory Pass
at the age of sweet
sixteen.
I had
never surfed before
an oncoming
storm,
but
Abby was losing strength
trekking across the Gulf
trekking across the Gulf
by the
time she made landfall
fifty
miles further north.
Hurricanes
or tropical storms
had
a way of drawing out
the
Gulf coast surfers
like
sugar with ants.
The
sugar surf was limited
on
the West Coast
so
you surfed passionately
and
almost uncontrollably,
always
thinking
here
today, gone tomorrow.
By
late afternoon
I
was mentally and physically depleted
to
the point my spirit was willing,
but
the body was completely paddled out.
On
my last wave of the day,
I
was hanging five
and
decided to hang ten
causing
Dewey to pearl immediately.
I
was thrown forward
while
my surfboard
shot
out of the water like a missile.
While
quickly looking around for my board,
Dewey
came down nose first,
pegging
me right in the forehead!
With
a small gash and a growing lump
I
decided to call it a day and head for home.
Along
the way
I
had fallen asleep at the wheel
and
crossed the centerline,
clipped
a mailbox, and
knocked
the side mirror off the wagon
before
swerving back into my lane!
Arriving
home
I
collapsed on my bed
and
quickly fell asleep,
exhausted
and totally out of it.
At
the break of dawn
the
top of the towering eucalyptus tree
was
still leaning to the east
as
Dewey and I made our way further south
along
the windy coastline
in
search for more sugar.
Though
I surfed that day
like
there was no tomorrow,
I didn’t
want to repeat
the
day before in risking
my
life or others.
At
the crack of dawn on day three
the
treesock was faintly active.
I
was crestfallen,
but
grabbed up Dewey anyway
and
off to the beach we went.
The
waves had flatlined
during
the night.
All
the sugar had
dissolved
into the calm,
and
the ants had returned
to
their mound,
except
for one,
still
searching for a morsel.
The
knot on my forehead
reminded
me
that
not all had subsided,
and
Dewey and I returned home.
The
missile,
the
mailbox,
and
the mirror
were
mental keepsakes
of
going stupid
during
that sugar rush!
But
how do you tell
the
smarter than ants
to
stay away or
to control
themselves when
sugar
is discovered
on
another day?
The
impulse is
to
take whatever possible
until
it is gone.
It
is a primitive, powerful, and persuasive pull
to naturally
go for the sugar
like
there was no tomorrow.
As
for me,
I’ve
got this little scar on my head
to forever
remind me that
choice can
turn a sugar rush sour
when
passion is allowed to surge
like
there was no tomorrow.